Lhasa
We spend two days in Lhasa visiting the incredible
religious sites. Visits to the Potala
Palace, Jokhang Temple, and
Barkhor pilgrim circuit occupy the first day. The view from the
Potala roof of Lhasa is spectacular (left). The growth of Lhasa
has been remarkable from less than 3 km3 in 1951 to 25
km3 in 1980. The second day of our visit (July 1st)
is the anniversary of the Chinese Communist Party and there are
activities all over to commemorate this wonderful event, most
involving soldiers in dress uniform. It is a way to get some
feeling for the large numbers of PLA personnel in the city, who
hitherto have remained in the background. There are elaborate
ceremonies in Peoples' Square opposite the Potala. People
staffing tables along the streets distribute leaflets in Tibetan
and Chinese; many can be found in shreds on the ground. We drive
to the Drepung and Sera Monasteries, which are located on the
outskirts of Lhasa, and visit the Norbulingka, which is the Dalai
Lama's Summer Palace.
The Barkhor
Barkhor Square (right) is a plaza cleared by the Chinese
in front of the Jokhang Temple, the holiest site in Tibet. Many
Tibetans and Chinese wander the market in Barkhor Square before
the Jokhang or follow the Barkhor pilgrims' route that encircles
the building. Video cameras are mounted on the buildings
surrounding the square and are used by Chinese security to
monitor Tibetan activities in Barkhor Square, presumably to
provide a record of those to arrest after any disturbances.
The Norbulingka
The Norbulingka ("Jewel Park") was the summer
residence of the Dalai Lamas. The "New Summer Palace" of the
Fourteenth Dalai Lama (left) was completed in 1956-7 but he only
inhabited it for two years before going into exile in India after
an abortive Tibetan Revolt against the
Chinese occupation. The Norbulingka was heavily shelled during
the revolt, but has since been repaired as a tourist draw. The
New Summer Palace contains a series of rooms in the Tibetan style
with ornate wall paintings. There are several reception and
audience halls, mediation chambers, bedroom, and a bathroom with
Western-style plumbing. A large Russian-made console radio set
given to the Fourteenth Dalai Lama by Indian premier Nehru stands
along the wall in one room.
